20111205-DSC_9076

Zoom Factors: Why Your Feet Cannot Be Replaced By A Zoom Lens

December 08, 2011 / by / 11 Comments

When it comes to the focal length of your lens, too often we think about how far or how close a lens will reach.  The relationship between focal length and the distance between our subject and the camera should not be thought of as corollary.  In truth, the focal length affects far more than how close you can “zoom in” on a subject.  The one detail that many photographers forget – the detail that affects the spatial aspects of our photos the most – is also perhaps the most forgotten:  Angle of view.  Angle of view affects what fits into the frame which, in turn, affects how we perceive space in a photograph.  It distorts perspectives and bends reality far more than you think.  As photographers, we must take that into perspective, and we need to adjust accordingly.  The only way to do that?  Use your feet.

Compression Science

Corridor at 70mm.

If you are in the camp with those who believe that a photograph never lies, you should either change your view or give up the craft all together.  I believe that a photograph rarely tells a full truth, and angle of view and its side effects are the best evidence to support that believe.  In short, longer focal lengths have a narrower angle of view and in turn results in a more compressed image.  The perceived  distances between objects at different depths within the photo seems much tighter at these narrower angles of view.  Ergo, the longer the focal length, the more compressed the depth of your photo will appear.  The phenomenon is referred to as Perspective Distortion.  I could speak at length about the cause behind it, complete with all the boring details.  But as this is a photography discussion – and not a physics discussion – I will take a simpler approach.

Corridor at 18mm. To use the shorter focal length, I had to move about 15 feet closer to the doorway at left.

There are essentially two physical constants in the camera:  The size of the sensor, and the distance between the back of the lens and the sensor.  Bear with me for a minute and imagine this camera is a pinhole camera and we have control over the angle of view.  In such a simple camera, any change in the angle of view would change what gets dispersed across the sensor.  A more normal, and significantly more complex, camera lens is designed to keep the light spread across the sensor at a constant (I’ll refer to this as “magic”).  So the angle of view at the back of the lens is also constant, regardless of the angle of view at the front of the lens.

Focal length comes into play here simply because of how large the lens is, typically.  As a general rule, the longer the focal length, the narrower the angle of view.  No matter how narrow that angle of view may be, it still needs to fill the same angle when it gets spread across the sensor (thanks to the magic).  Think about the entire depth of your photograph as a cone of view emanating from the camera.  Somewhere in the middle of that cone, there’s a point at which nothing really distorts which we’ll call the distortion free zone (DFZ).    If we were to hypothetically take slices through other points of the cone, a slice closer to the camera than the DFZ would be smaller and one beyond the DFZ would be larger.  If we were to stretch the pre-DFZ slice and shrink the post-DFZ slice so that they were the same size as the DFZ slice, you can imagine the distortion that would result.  Objects in the post-DFZ slices would appear relatively smaller, objects in the pre-DFZ slices would appear relatively larger than their real-life (undistorted) counterparts.  This is essentially what the components within your lens are doing when it does it’s magic.  And that’s how the resulting image will look distorted.  But bear in mind, except in extreme cases, these distortions are rarely enough to be unnerving, and thus we can use Perspective Distortion to our advantage.

Perspective Distortion And Our Photography:  Hint, You’ll Need Your Feet

I am not looking to start a prime lens vs. zoom lens debate, but I want to highlight one argument in the pro-prime camp that I feel doesn’t hold water.  The argument is that a zoom lens makes one lazy as they should use their feet to frame the shot.  And while the argument touches lightly on the topic of discussion today, I feel the argument doesn’t hold water because it also highlights a disadvantage of prime lenses:  You can’t change your angle of view.  And while I do see the merit in prime lenses – and I do love all of mine – I will recommend that beginners purchase zoom lenses.  But that comes with a caveat:  You still need to use your feet.

For demonstration purposes, I shot these fruit with a horribly cluttered background. At 18mm (left), the clutter is very much a distraction. At 135mm, I can’t fully eliminate all of the clutter, but I can reduce some of the distractions.

When setting up a shot, I want you to consider the angle of view and the perspective distortion when you pick a focal length.  You’re picking a focal length for these reasons, not simply because you can’t reach a subject from where you stand.  If you’re not used to visualizing, move your zoom in relation to your footsteps.  Walk farther away, but zoom in to frame your subject similarly (or vice versa) and pay close attention to the background and foreground.  The focal length can dramatically change the mood of the shot.  The trick can also be used to obscure unwanted backgrounds or foregrounds as you can see in my examples shown here.  As for your feet…there’s no avoiding it:  Zoom or not, they’ll be doing some walking if you really want to compose your shot well.

Final Thoughts

So now I’m going to throw it out on the table.  From this point forward, I want to challenge you to stop thinking about zoom factors as a convenience.  I want you to think of the focal length as a tool, a means to bend reality to your needs – to compress or stretch space at will.  The use of focal length in this most appropriate manner will make you a better, more creative photographer.  So let your feet do their job and move yourself back and forth at the same time you’re rotating that zoom ring.


ABOUT THE AUTHOR

D. Travis North is a professional Landscape Architect, a Freelance Photographer and founder of Shutter Photo. Ever since he picked up his first SLR, his father's Nikon N2000, he's been hooked on photography. Travis likes to photograph urban environments, architectural details and has a new-found interest in close-up photography. His work can be found at D. Travis North Photography. Follow Travis on twitter: @dtnorth.

11 Responses
  1. Simon Hucko

    I tend to think of my zoom lenses as a series of primes, where I can choose what sort of perspective distortion/compression (or lack thereof) I want in a photo and set the lens to the appropriate focal length. I can then frame with my feet.

    Of course, you’re not always free to move around, in which case you can use your zoom to frame the shot, but that should be a last resort and not the default.

    Dec.08.2011 at 2:19 pm
    • D. Travis North (Author)

      I like the idea of your zoom lens being “a  series of primes”.  That’s a great way to think about it, and it’s really a great process.  

      And yes, sometimes you can’t safely get close enough or far enough.  And that’s when you don’t have a choice but to zoom for the sake of framing.  Not ideal…but getting the shot is 75% of the game.

      Dec.12.2011 at 9:54 pm
  2. Wicked Ying

    50mm ftw! That’s what I’m using! :p

    Dec.10.2011 at 2:59 am
    • D. Travis North (Author)

      Curious…on a full framed sensor…or on a cropped sensor?  I shot with 50mm on film for more than a decade.  When I switched to digital, a Nikon D80 (1.5x crop), I should, in theory, love the 35mm prime.  But I still find the 50mm to be my favorite.  There’s just something about that nifty 50

      Dec.12.2011 at 9:53 pm
      • Wicked Ying

        True! Cropped frame.. But whichever way, I still love 50mm especially on the bokeh effects… :)

        Dec.13.2011 at 1:14 am
        • D. Travis North (Author)

          Thinking about it more, I was playing with my film camera tonight and I realized something – the viewfinder on my old camera was pretty poor compared to my current camera.  So through the lens, the 50mm looks very similar on my film vs my digital.  Obviously, the output is different, but the feel is the same.  Moving to post – you bring up the bokeh effect, which has been refined over the years.  50mm used to be the standard sold with every camera.  If there’s one lens that every manufacturer has probably perfected, it would be the 50mm prime.  I think that’s noticeable even to rookies…it’s just a good lens to have.  But I do love the 24-70mm zooms…if they’re well done (albeit, not cheap), they’re a great lens to have.

          Dec.13.2011 at 1:18 am
          • Wicked Ying

            I do want to try 24-70 but yeah, true enough it ain’t cheap.. :(

            I have to settle with what I have to complete my 365 challenge.. =p

            Dec.13.2011 at 1:24 am
          • D. Travis North (Author)

            Don’t get too crazy over gear.  It gets frustrating at times when you really want that new lens, or a new strobe.  But in the end, you’ll learn more by making do with what you have.  That said, it never hurts to treat yourself every once in a while.  :)

            Dec.13.2011 at 1:29 am
          • Wicked Ying

            It is really my hubby’s gear and all.. He started this whole photography thing and I kinda got along with it.. 
            So yeah, pretty much contented with what we have.. I guess what’s important is you know how to use it right?! 

            Dec.13.2011 at 1:37 am
          • D. Travis North (Author)

            Ahh…wish I had someone to share gear with.  That would be awesome…and it would justify some expenditures.

            Dec.13.2011 at 1:55 am
          • Wicked Ying

            Haha! Yes, you might wanna teach your partner a thing or two about photography.. That would be cool.. :)

            Dec.13.2011 at 2:02 am